Help on installing Alarm (Cyclone 866f)

Logo

    
    

Help on installing Alarm (Cyclone 866f)

This is a discussion on Help on installing Alarm (Cyclone 866f) within the Ninja 650R Accessories forums, part of the Kawasaki Ninja 650R category; Hi guys I would appreciate some help on the wiring of the cyclone 866f alarm system. This is the first time I am gonna do ...

Results 1 to 13 of 13
Like Tree5Likes
  • 2 Post By Anthony650
  • 2 Post By SS109
  • 1 Post By icskill

Thread: Help on installing Alarm (Cyclone 866f)

  1. #1
    Rising Star icskill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    General Santos City Philippines
    Posts
    272
    Thanked
    43 times

    Help on installing Alarm (Cyclone 866f)

    Hi guys I would appreciate some help on the wiring of the cyclone 866f alarm system. This is the first time I am gonna do alarm installation but I do have a bit of knowledge messing around with turn signals and lights on my previous mc.

    I notice that there is a fuse box under the seat<er6f 2013> that is left of the battery and my question is if its ok to tap from there? I would need the ignition/acc which is brown and the killswitch which i think is red for the immobilizer.

    I am also looking for an alternative way to hook up power from the two battery terminals(-and +) rather than just connecting the alarm directly to it.

    Thank you for your time.
    Last edited by icskill; 10-21-13 at 11:25 PM.

  2. #2
    Up-And Comer Anthony650's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    128
    Thanked
    36 times
    Hello, I work at a shop that does a lot of auto-electrical installations. I'm an office guy but have been trained to do installs as well (what i'm saying is don't rely entirely on what i'm saying) that being said this should be pretty straight forward.

    I hope you have a multimeter handy. Yes, it is generally OK to tap into the fusebox. Just make sure you leave enough room that if you mangle a wire you don't have to replace the whole harness (i'd say minimum 3" away from harness)

    I would use color codes as a reference but always verify with a multimeter, if you don't have one a digital multimeter can be had for about $25 at sears or auto zone and worth every penny.

    Power "constant" aka "12v" will always have between 11-14 volts even with the bike off key out, in cars they'll usually go to the ignition harness but on a bike I would go direct to battery with an inline fuse (make sure fuse isn't too far from the battery terminal) probably 4-6" max. I would use a ring terminal here.

    Ignition - Will read 12v only with they key in the "on" position, 0 with the key removed and should drop to no less than around 9v when the bike is cranking.

    Ground - In the shop I work at they never use the battery for ground, find an unpainted metal surface on the bike an existing bolt would be easiest away from heat and moving parts. You may want to temporarily ground at the battery to get everything setup and ensure it's functioning and then locate a suitable ground later (just because you want to make sure all other connections are OK first and not testing with a bad ground) I would use a ring terminal for this connection as I see a lot of people simply wrap the wire around the bolt and it causes issues.

    Kill switch should have 12v when in the engaged position and drop to 0v when the switch is turned to the "kill" position. The problem is there will be multiple wires that test this way. Cutting each one will damage your harness and won't be pretty + you'll always have a nagging feeling on if one of your "repairs" will hold.

    One last thing and this is purely preference. I see a lot of cars and bikes where the owner installed the alarm themselves. The job is sloppy wires hanging around etc. try to make it look factory. I suggest wire loom, black electrical tape, and black cable ties to try and match your factory wiring as much as possible. Not only does this create a cleaner look, but will make it harder for any would be thief to tamper with your anti-theft system.

    PS - I know you didn't ask but I wouldn't use T-taps scotch locks or any other click on method of installation. I prefer to use solder on wiring so I know the connection is sound and permanent. There is information out there that says using T-taps etc leads to corrosion and brittle wires though not everyone agrees with this I'm a subscriber to the theory...see here for the theory if you're interested: The Problem with Wire-Tap Connectors « Bareass Choppers Motorcycle Tech Pages
    Last edited by Anthony650; 10-22-13 at 08:56 PM.
    SS109 and icskill like this.

  3. #3
    Up-And Comer SS109's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    63
    Thanked
    8 times
    As a former mobile security installer myself, everything Anthony650 said is spot on. The last two points are details most gloss over but are very important IMO/IME. T-taps/quick splices of any kind are garbage and even more so on a security install. Making everything look as factory as possible should be a priority for the very reason Anthony stated, harder for a thief to mess with it. Do it once, do it right!
    Anthony650 and icskill like this.
    '09 Ninja 650R - '90 KDX200 - '94 KDX250AF

  4. Remove Advertisements
    RiderForums.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Rising Star icskill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    General Santos City Philippines
    Posts
    272
    Thanked
    43 times
    Thank you so much Anthony650! I now know what things I need and I am excited to get this done ^^,
    Anthony650 likes this.

  6. #5
    Rising Star icskill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    General Santos City Philippines
    Posts
    272
    Thanked
    43 times
    Thanks SS109 for the heads up. Damm I was gonna use this shortcut splices as I thought they were pretty easy install and durable looking. Guess I was wrong though.

  7. #6
    Up-And Comer Anthony650's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    128
    Thanked
    36 times
    if you provide the yr/make/model i could probably get you the wiring schematic as well. The one below is a 2011
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Anthony650; 10-22-13 at 11:56 PM.

  8. #7
    Rising Star icskill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    General Santos City Philippines
    Posts
    272
    Thanked
    43 times
    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony650 View Post
    if you provide the yr/make/model i could probably get you the wiring schematic as well!
    Cool! My bike is er6f (ninja 650r) 2013.

  9. #8
    Up-And Comer Anthony650's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    128
    Thanked
    36 times
    It looks like it stayed the same from 2011, pin#28 (see diagram above) and is said to be red.

    Make sure you read the installation manual though to see where they want you to cut the kill switch wire as it may not be at the ECU, and also will likely have you placing two separate leads to the now cut wire. One will probably be referred to as a "key side" and one was a "body side". Just like it sounds, key side is closer to the key - body side is closer to the body electrical.

    Also, I looked up the install manual on your alarm (am also looking into alarm systems) and it says DO NOT CUT your kill switch wire. http://lockitt.com/PDF/866F_Install_Guide.pdf see pg 5 and the diagram, the 2013 is a CDI bike.

    ONE LAST THING (IMPORTANT) Depending on the gauge (thickness) of the wire, soldering may also damage the wire. If the wires are thin you may be better off using T-taps if you're not familiar with soldering as thin gauge wire will start to burn up quickly!.
    Last edited by Anthony650; 10-23-13 at 12:19 AM.

  10. #9
    Rising Star icskill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    General Santos City Philippines
    Posts
    272
    Thanked
    43 times
    Ok wew that page 5 is very tricky! I wish they would write it more clearly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony650 View Post
    It looks like it stayed the same from 2011, pin#28 (see diagram above) and is said to be red.

    Make sure you read the installation manual though to see where they want you to cut the kill switch wire as it may not be at the ECU, and also will likely have you placing two separate leads to the now cut wire. One will probably be referred to as a "key side" and one was a "body side". Just like it sounds, key side is closer to the key - body side is closer to the body electrical.

    Also, I looked up the install manual on your alarm (am also looking into alarm systems) and it says DO NOT CUT your kill switch wire. http://lockitt.com/PDF/866F_Install_Guide.pdf see pg 5 and the diagram, the 2013 is a CDI bike.

    ONE LAST THING (IMPORTANT) Depending on the gauge (thickness) of the wire, soldering may also damage the wire. If the wires are thin you may be better off using T-taps if you're not familiar with soldering as thin gauge wire will start to burn up quickly!.

  11. #10
    Up-And Comer Anthony650's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    128
    Thanked
    36 times
    Quote Originally Posted by icskill View Post
    Ok wew that page 5 is very tricky! I wish they would write it more clearly.
    lol that is the wish of even most installers. It explains how to do it on pg 3 with the immobilizer, it looks like they'r requesting that you cut the ignition/accessory wire, strange because in cars the ignition and accessory are two different things - it looks like they consider it the same? This pic should help you locate what you're looking for.

    Kawasaki EX 650 R Ninja 2012 2013 2014 CDI | eBay

  12. #11
    Rising Star icskill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    General Santos City Philippines
    Posts
    272
    Thanked
    43 times
    just thought i would update this old thread. I have now installed the alarm but not the immobilizer due to upon testing I accidentally squeezed the buttons on the transponder inside my pants while I was riding and it triggered the alarm. Now imagine if the immobilier was installed I would probably be in trouble. The alarm is super loud and loving it!
    Last edited by icskill; 05-10-14 at 06:11 AM. Reason: typo

  13. #12
    Up-And Comer quanttrom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    71
    Thanked
    11 times
    for future reference to anyone reading this:
    I've had the best luck with soldering the wires using plenty of flux. Followed by cleaning up the flux with alcohol.(flux is slightly acidic) Using adhesive heat-shrink protects the joint from the elements and prevents water from getting in. Adhesive heat-shrink is a bit more expensive but it does provide for a longer lasting join.

    Wikipedia shows a nice video of adhesive heatshrink. You can see the glue come out at the end and bond with the PVC insulation.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:V...and_after_.ogg


    2009 Ninja 650R
    Hyperpro StreetBox
    Oxford Heaterz
    MRA X-creen
    BKMoto Mini H1 Projectors
    Cigarette Power Socket
    HealTech Gear Indicator
    Stebel Nautilus Compact
    Vleds Retina Burners LED

  14. #13
    Rising Star icskill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    General Santos City Philippines
    Posts
    272
    Thanked
    43 times
    Just wanna update this thread as of now I have connected all of the wires from cyclone . When I first installed the alarm I did not install the immobilizer and had the ignition wire on the rear brake light. This cause some disturbance on operation because the rear brake lights are obviously not the same with the ignition wires and sometimes will activate the alarm. In actual experience the alarm triggered while i was riding the ninja 650 but this was because of my faulty installation. I have talk with kiramek regarding this and they told me the alarm should not go off when I correctly install the alarm.

    After months of finally learning how to take of the gas tank all by myself I have decided to finally tap all the wires in the cyclone to the remaining ignition wire and kill switch. For those those who might be installing the alarm the ignition switch I tap to the brown wires located at the top of the relay box and the kill switch wires green and white I tap at the relay box wire colored Red with Yellow. Do note that I have CUT the red yellow wire and solder each ends to the green and one to the white. The alarm now works perfectly! No more accidental pushing the alarm button while riding. I will post the video of the finished installed alarm as soon as I fix my mic.

Remove Ads

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Search tags for this page

cyclone 866f motorcycle alarm system operation manual
,
cyclone alarm diagram
,
cyclone alarm wiring diagram
,
cyclone car immobiliser installation guide fuse
,
cyclone v2 talking motorcycle alarm philippines
,
easy way to install cyclone alarm
,

how do you know when your fuel pump isn't working on a 09 ninja 650r

,

how to install a cyclone 866f

,
motorcycle wire diagram thread philippines
,
which fuse point for car cyclone immobiliser
Click on a term to search for related topics.