z1000 Horsepower and Torque
This is a discussion on z1000 Horsepower and Torque within the General Z1000/Z750 forums, part of the Kawasaki Z1000, Ninja 1000, Z800, Z750 & Z-750S category; I picked up my Orange z1000 on March 9th here in northern California. I just got the Kawasaki z100 motorcycle service manual off of ebay ...
z1000 Horsepower and Torque
I picked up my Orange z1000 on March 9th here in northern California. I just got the Kawasaki z100 motorcycle service manual off of ebay delivered today. I am curious what the horsepower and torque are.
I searched around the internet and found a few links that seem to indicate different numbers, adn was wondering what everyone here thinks.
www.mcnews.com.au indicates 113.1hp and 85.7 N.m (63.2 ft.lb) torque at the rear wheel.
www.motorcyclistonline.com indicates 125bhp and doesn't indicate torque. Is bhp different from hp? Does that indicate rear-wheel horsepower or horsepower at the crank?
Motorcycle USA indicates 144 horsepower and doesn't indicate torque.
Some information from my service manual follows:
93.4 kW (127 PS) @10 000 r/min (rpm),
(MY, AU) 90.5 kW (123 PS) @10 000 r/min (rpm)
(HR) 78.2 kW (106 PS) @10 000 r/min (rpm)
(US) - - -
95.6 N.m (9.7 kgf.m, 71 ft.lb @8 000 r/min (rpm),
(MY, AU) 92.7 N.m (9.4 kgf.m, 68 ft.lb @8 000 r/min (rpm)
(HR) 86.3 N.m (8.8 kgf.m, 64 ft.lb @7 500 r/min (rpm)
(US) - - -
Specifications are subject to change without notice, and may not apply to every country.
(AU) Austrailia Model
(US) U.S.A. Model
(CA) Canada Model
(Cal) California Model
(MY) Malaysia Model
(HR) with Honeycomb Catalytic Converter Model (Restricted model)
Also of note is that according to the Kawasaki website, the dry weight is 437 lbs and according to the service manual the dry weight is 410.1 lbs.
I'm just wondering what the actual specs are for my bike. Being in California, my understanding is that I have the (HR) model, which the manual seems to indicate has 104.5HP (Using the formula PS X 0.9863 = HP) which I would assume is at the crank. Quite a difference from the horsepower indicated at other sites.
Has anyone thrown there's on a dyno yet? If the California model does have less horse power, would an aftermarket pipe eliminate the horsepower difference? I realize that an aftermarket pipe would add horsepower, but would a California bike and a non-California bike both fitted with the same pipe then have the same horsepower?
Anybody have any thoughts? My service manual says it is a first edition, though I have no idea if there are any other editions. If anyone would like to know any of the information from the service manual, let me know.
Horsepower and torque can vary from one bike to the next by 5% or more, depending on how it's broken in, quality of assembly, altitude of measurement, etc. The only way to know exactly how much yours is making is to put it on a dyno, and even that's not accurate, because if the temperature changes and you read it again on the same dyno, it will be a little different. Motorcycle.com says 128 hp at the rear wheel; my opinion is that it doesn't really matter- this thing will be fast once I get past break-in, and whether it has 125 or 135, I'm gonna enjoy it! Also, they are 50 state bikes (all have catalytic converters) so I'm told. Manufacturers aren't really making CA-model bikes much anymore.
My bike's dyno numbers (before and after Two Brothers slip-ons) will be posted on this site as soon as I can get my rear over to the shop for the 600 mile checkup- should be within a week.
You are gonna dyno the bike after only 600 miles? I've heard that may not be a good idea, since the engine isn't really broken in yet. After all, there's an RPM limit to 1000 miles. They really beat the engine up on that dyno...
Motorcycle.com dyno'd a Z1K and came up with 128 HP (rear wheel) and 72 ft/lbs.
I noticed, as did you, that the service manual specifications differ slightly from the press release stuff...
Sweet, that's what I'm really interested in.
My bike's dyno numbers (before and after Two Brothers slip-ons) will be posted on this site ...
Hi guy...here in Italy every specialistic newspaper about moto says
127 hp (93,4 kw) and 9,7 kgm (95,6 nm).
Look that it can be some differences between Z1000 made for europe and for USA done for exaust emissions and some other local laws.
All about that the motorcycle should be the same.
The Two Bros Racing guys believe in the break in philosophy of "break it in like you're gonna ride it", so they have no qualms about dynoing at 600 miles. Heck, they would have dynoed it at 300 miles if I let them, but by the time they get it I'll have 750 miles and an oil change. Should be this week. Personally, I don't care if slip-ons give 3 hp more 12 hp more. It's nice to know if it's a lot more, but it will not affect my riding enjoyment one bit either way. Only reason I'm dynoing it is the TBR guys are friends and they will post the info on their site.
Tombiker, did you ride your bike much before you got the slipons? If so, does your bike feel a lot better/ more powerful or do they just make your bike look and sound different? Is it worth the cost? Thanks in advance for any info.
Slip on horsepower
I put the TBR slip-ons on at about 300 miles, and I had not exceeded 4000 rpm yet, so I had no idea what kind of power the bike had stock. Now, at almost 900 miles, I'm revving it to 7000, even 8000 rpm, and all I know is it goes like stink, sounds great, and looks very good too, plus it's something like 18 lbs lighter! I can eat a big lunch and not worry about its effect on my power-to-weight ratio. When TBR puts it on the dyno, they'll compare numbers stock vs. slip-ons, as they still have my old, gold pipes.
Mostly, I wanted some kind of pipes to give the bike some personality, as I found it a little mild sounding when stock. Inline four cylinder bikes are smooth and fast, but a v-twin or a single has much more personality- I had to do something to make this one more fun.
Is it worth the cost of these pipes? I dunno, that's an individual decision. $800 (less for aluminum canisters) for a potential 10 hp (we'll see) and significant weight loss isn't a bad deal, unless you're my girlfriend and you don't understand the need to make a 128hp, 470 lb motorcycle go faster. To me, it's money well spent, but I'm one of those "I gotta have it" kinda guys.
two bros slip-ons
I'd really like to see a pic of your bike with those cans on. Do they match the gold headers?
Click on either www.z1000.net or www.twobros.com and you'll see photos of my orange bike with slip-ons.
Also, I see at Muzzy's site (www.muzzys.com) they say they've got a 4-2-1 full header system, but they only have photos of dual slip-ons. I'm really lusting after an undertail exhaust, but not holding my breath.
For you power junkies out there, a new dyno chart has just been posted at www.twobros.com, showing Z1000 stock numbers vs Z1000 with TwoBros slip-ons. Greatest gain is at 6500 rpm, with a 5-and-a-half horsepower increase. No losses (except a small dip at 3300 rpm it looks like) anywhere in the powerband, and even a couple extra hp at the top end.
Go buy yours now, and tell 'em Tom sent ya.
Thanks for the post Tombiker.
As I understand all US models are restricted models, as it's not financially feasible for Kawi to make a special California model...
Can somebody with a service manual share where are the converters located? The question, really, is about changing the exhaust. Changing to a full system will certainly eliminate the catalytic converter, what about a slip-on system?
Is there any other differences between European spec Z and US spec Z? That is, to just bring an american Z to European specs, does taking out the catalytic converter do the trick or something more is necessary?
Thanks for all your input!
Originally Posted by Shilo
Do a search. There are articles of people removing the cats on the first gens. It they are located at the base of the cans before the split of the two pipes.
sold to someone in Austin. Did someone here buy my bike from a guy named Steve?
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