after you warm up (after fast idle turns off) your bike do you try to keep the revs low (<5krpm) or do you just start riding normally (3-6krpm) after the fast idle turns off?

the mornings have been cold lately ~44 deg F and even after the fast idle turns off, the engine sounds kind of hollow when I rev to 6krpm, than after it's fully warmed up (after maybe 15 minutes of freeway riding). I know it's fully warmed up when the idle stays around 1.25krpm.

Is it just psychological?

I try to. I dont think that it would make that much difference. Just had a thought. High revs mostly causes me to go in a little quicker. If its in a lower rev range then I suppose I wnt go as quick = no falling off cause of cold tyres.

I usually take it easy the first few miles or so after the warm-up revs have come down. Then again, I only have a 3 mile ride to work each day so my bike is just getting warmed up by the time I get to work.
Otherwise, I try to let the bike warm up a bit before I get going.

I believe that revving to 6000 RPMs is not as much an issue as how hard you twist the throttle. Heavy loads on the engine before it is fully warmed up would be my main concern.

Originally Posted by rubix777

after you warm up (after fast idle turns off) your bike do you try to keep the revs low (<5krpm) or do you just start riding normally (3-6krpm) after the fast idle turns off?

Since when is riding the Ninja 650R between 3-6krpm "normal"?
You're not even close to the power band and at 3000 rpm you're probably lugging the engine.
I generally ride mine in the 7-9krpm sweet spot. Kawasaki engines are pretty bullet proof and the bikes come with a 2 year warranty, so best to blow it up early
Ride On!
Tony

Originally Posted by TonyNinjaBKK

Since when is riding the Ninja 650R between 3-6krpm "normal"?
You're not even close to the power band and at 3000 rpm you're probably lugging the engine.
I generally ride mine in the 7-9krpm sweet spot. Kawasaki engines are pretty bullet proof and the bikes come with a 2 year warranty, so best to blow it up early
Ride On!
Tony

I am seconding his comment, but will also add that when I am just cruising along with nowhere in particular to go I will go up an extra gear and let it run around 5.5 to 6K. But when I am going somewhere 6 - 8K is normal for me.

The engine is fine lugging along at 3000 rpm ... you're not going to damage it in any way, I usually ride in 6th for all cruising to maximize fuel savings. At that rpm and even below oil pressure is adequate and the bike is just not going to yank you when you twist it...

As for the original question, generally once it's off fast idle and warmed the oil is heated up more than enough for high rpm riding...

I dont generally start riding until the fast idle is off... I like letting it warm up first...

I normally start it up then put on the gear. The fast idle isn't off but I take it easy for a mile or so before getting on it,

I usually wait a minute or so until the rpm's drop (fast idle stops) before i start rideing. then for the next mile or so i keep it under 5k rpm.

A 5k or 6k "limit" won't make an ounce of difference.
Let the engine spin freely (3-4-5-6k), don't load it with hard throttle esp. in the lower revs like also twowheeladdict says, gradually build the revs and throttle input as it warms...

, generally once it's off fast idle and warmed the oil is heated up more than enough for high rpm riding...

- which is it? off fast idle, or warmed? Those are NOT the same! I won't let you take my bike to 10k a few minutes after startup...

Originally Posted by BugMeNot1

A 5k or 6k "limit" won't make an ounce of difference.
Let the engine spin freely (3-4-5-6k), don't load it with hard throttle esp. in the lower revs like also twowheeladdict says, gradually build the revs and throttle input as it warms...

- which is it? off fast idle, or warmed? Those are NOT the same! I won't let you take my bike to 10k a few minutes after startup...

when the engine is off fast idle after a few minutes of idling the oil is more than hot enough for 10k rpms... it's not a car engine, the oil capacity is low and the oil is heated up rather quickly....

Originally Posted by avenger

The engine is fine lugging along at 3000 rpm ... you're not going to damage it in any way, I usually ride in 6th for all cruising to maximize fuel savings. At that rpm and even below oil pressure is adequate and the bike is just not going to yank you when you twist it...

Sorry, but lugging an engine is NOT fine and if you lug an engine over a long enough period of time you can actually damage your engine.

A lot of folks don't really understand what "lugging" an engine means- Basically "lugging" an engine is riding with the RPMs below the engine's optimal (or most efficient) power band. You end up overloading the engine to the point where engine is not revving high enough to make sufficient power. Like "cruising" around on a sport bike at 3000rpm in 4th gear and giving it gas.

If you take a look at your engine's Torque-HP/RPM curves you'll see the left most point where it peaks or levels out. When you're accelerating you should be at an RPM that puts you to the right of that point on the curve. If you're not, you're lugging the engine, identified by pre-ignition/pinging (BAD for your engine!) and lack of roll-on power.

So, if you are "cruising" at 3000RPM, no problem, but if you need to accelerate it will be better for your engine if you downshift first, rather than rolling on the throttle at such low RPM and lugging the engine.

Ride On!

Tony

after i start the engine i take my time putting on my helmet, gloves, and jacket if needed. i always wait til it settles down to 1.1-1.2K revs.

Hehe - I find that I usually leave my neighborhood, and as soon as I exit it, I haul it. RPM's are just part of it for me. Actually, the bike seems to run the strongest at that point (or maybe I just got tired of poking thru my subdivision). Nah - I just haul it. The Ninja seems to love it almost as much as I do.

Originally Posted by TonyNinjaBKK

Sorry, but lugging an engine is NOT fine and if you lug an engine over a long enough period of time you can actually damage your engine.

A lot of folks don't really understand what "lugging" an engine means- Basically "lugging" an engine is riding with the RPMs below the engine's optimal (or most efficient) power band. You end up overloading the engine to the point where engine is not revving high enough to make sufficient power. Like "cruising" around on a sport bike at 3000rpm in 4th gear and giving it gas.

If you take a look at your engine's Torque-HP/RPM curves you'll see the left most point where it peaks or levels out. When you're accelerating you should be at an RPM that puts you to the right of that point on the curve. If you're not, you're lugging the engine, identified by pre-ignition/pinging (BAD for your engine!) and lack of roll-on power.

So, if you are "cruising" at 3000RPM, no problem, but if you need to accelerate it will be better for your engine if you downshift first, rather than rolling on the throttle at such low RPM and lugging the engine.

Ride On!

Tony

rolling on the throttle at 3000 rpm is not going to hurt anything. period. If it was dangerous kawasaki would not halt your revs at 4000 rpm for the first 500 miles!

Yes you're not making a ton of power but it's not going to harm anything.

True lugging is when you're not spinning the engine fast enough to maintain adequate oil pressure. Ask BITOG and other reputable forums. As for pinging/knocking that is not at 3k rpms with a roll on...

and you can check the kawi owners manual... granted that no one rides like they suggest, but kawi recommends shifts low in the rpm range. it would not be "dangerous" if kawi recommended it for their own engine

people should not be paranoid about cruising around town in top gear