Are these back pieces quick detachable?
This is a discussion on Top box on N1K within the 3rd Gen Z1000/Z1000SX/Ninja 1000 forums, part of the Kawasaki Z1000, Ninja 1000, Z750 & Z-750S category; Are these back pieces quick detachable?...
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The Givi rack mounts under the the rear fender as well. It is pretty stiff/sturdy and doesn't wiggle like the stock grab rails do. It does have some cheap foam inserts to reduce the grab rail vibrations.
I hardly notice the top box there and it doesn't affect maneuvering or the front wheel. I only notice it on very windy days, and it is not even bad enough to think about it when riding. I have the smaller box though, which is barely wider than the bike.
The rack mounts underneath as well. It's quite sturdy when all tightened up.
Went for a night ride and just got back. I had the box on and I could not tell it was back there. It seems to draft in a pocket of air behind me. My 43 liter seems a bit big visually but it holds a 12 pack of pop and other groceries. Kind of justifies the touring part of sport touring.
2011 Nija 1000
Full Ivan's kit
UCU reflash for FCE and timing restrictions
Turn the key and depress a red button in and off it comes. To put it back on you slip the front into two slots and pull the back of the box down firmly and it pops into place. You have to lock this box when in motion. I donated my $80 riding gloves and my new Coco Beach hat to the roadside.
2011 Nija 1000
Full Ivan's kit
UCU reflash for FCE and timing restrictions
I used my old Givi E45 box with the Kawasaki OEM Rack (actually made by Givi).
IMGP0023.jpgIMGP0039b.jpg
The ride is fine, even 2-up with the box, but be careful how much weight you put on the back. The whole back end is held on by 4 small bolts that connect the rear pan to the frame.
Face
When in doubt ... Accelerate!
It mounts at both points. There are two bolts at the stock grab rail point, and you install a steel box above the rear fender mount for two more bolts. It's a bit of a PIA to install, but the result is a very secure structure. (Oops... this was already addressed.) I was impressed with that and with the nice integration with the bike. It looks great.
My wife really likes the backrest on the topcase, too. It lets her relax more so she doesn't end up with a sore back from clenching all day. The side rails make good grab bars, too.
Oh-12 Ninja 1000 ABS in Spark Black/Micron Gray... 9,000 happy miles and counting | Blog
T-Rex Racing sliders ~ 16-tooth front sprocket ~ Puig screen ~ The2Wheels levers ~ PR2 out back ~ Symtec grip heaters ~ Givi toprack and V46 case ~ Garmin Zuma 550 + Cardo Scala Rider Q2
'02 Bandit 12S (sold after 10 years and 47,000 miles)
'Busa shock ~ Racetech forks ~ Holeshot stage 1 & pipe ~ Hella headlights ~ CBRXX clipons
'02 Honda XR50R, '92 Honda CR125R
I'm not talking about the mounting of the OEM rack, which I agree looks much more integrated than the other aftermarket options. I'm referring to the connection between the frame and the rear pan, which is forward of the bolts that mount the rack.
Frame Mount.JPG
There are 2 bolts on each side (Shown as "A" in the pic) that are about 1 1/2" apart that carry the weight of the rear mounts for the rider's seat, the passenger seat plus all the luggage mounts. This connection failed on a low-side accident recently and the whole back end could be moved up and down a couple inches. It's the weak point in the whole system, and probably the reason they recommend limited luggage. I'm currently modifying the connection to beef it up. Stronger bolts (OEM heads are flat & 1 cracked) that don't just screw into the pan, but bolt through with lock nuts on the other side. The recommended torque setting for the stock bolts is only 18 ft/lbs, but I'll be able to tighten it much more with the nuts on the back.
Face
When in doubt ... Accelerate!
It is a little frightening thinking about all the weight of the passenger and luggage on those 4 little bolts.
2011 Ninja 1000 :: Fastest Color :: Akrapovic 4-2-1 :: Pulled Sub Throttle Plates :: PAIR Blocked :: Modded Airbox :: PCV :: Pit Bull Swingarm Spools :: Fuzeblocks Power Distribution :: Gerbing Hookup :: Battery Tender Hookup :: Tank Slapper :: Zero Gravity Double Bubble :: Bags Connection Powered Tank Bag :: Ventura Tail Bag :: Sargent/Squidlius Maximus Seat
One of the selling points in the articles I read before buying was the well-designed rear subframe. It's much more substantial that than of my Bandit, for example, and I'd have no serious concerns about it assuming the bolts are of high grade. All my experience with Japanese bikes is that they are.
The forces that a soft human butt applies to the seat, which has a fairly short torque-arm, and those that an overloaded top case apply, with it's long torque-arm and rigid mounts, are quite different. Obviously a top case can't hold anything near what the seat can. Use some reason and ride happy.
Oh-12 Ninja 1000 ABS in Spark Black/Micron Gray... 9,000 happy miles and counting | Blog
T-Rex Racing sliders ~ 16-tooth front sprocket ~ Puig screen ~ The2Wheels levers ~ PR2 out back ~ Symtec grip heaters ~ Givi toprack and V46 case ~ Garmin Zuma 550 + Cardo Scala Rider Q2
'02 Bandit 12S (sold after 10 years and 47,000 miles)
'Busa shock ~ Racetech forks ~ Holeshot stage 1 & pipe ~ Hella headlights ~ CBRXX clipons
'02 Honda XR50R, '92 Honda CR125R
My wife also likes having the box behind her when we ride 2-up. That's one of the reasons I got it.
A passenger with gear on probably weighs around 130 to 150 lbs. Even though the box is further out, loaded, it probably weighs 40 lbs max, and is connected below & in front of the passenger. Together with the rack thats up to 200 lbs bouncing on this 4 bolts. Separately, I don't think the extra cantelever distance of the box is going to have more impact than the extra weight of a passenger.
There is also a generous tollerance in the holes in the frame, so if the bolts loosen, even a little, the whole assembly is going to start shifting around.
I showed the problem to a mechanic at my local dealership, and he said that kind of mounting configuration is common on most sport bikes. The problem is the N1K is also intended for light touring. He suggested I get a Yamaha FJR if I intend to do a lot of 2-up touring. I like the N1K far to much to switch. Last night I installed new bolts with nuts (as discussed above) and shimmed the extra tollerance space in the holes, so we'll see if that makes it a little stronger.
Face
When in doubt ... Accelerate!
Got the big Givi top box, the E55 Maxia tech.
Easily fits 2 helmets, or a 17" laptop.
I use it for commuting (descent suit, 17" laptop, writing material, leather shoes, ...), but leave it on all the time, even when doing twisties in the weekend.
The mount looks ugly without the case, and the case doesn't seem to harm performance or handling.
It's the biggest of them all, but the shape makes it look less big & more streamlined then it's smaller brothers.
I have no issues with instability at high speeds, +240 km/h = no problem.
Overloading didn't get me any issues at all. It's limited for 10kg, but I already loaded it with 24kg's ... again no issues at high speeds or cornering.
The only time I notice the case is with heavy side wind ... but that's obvious![]()
2011 Ebony Z1000SX - Akrapovic slip-ons, Puig screen, bi-xenon + LED angel eyes, Sargent seat,
Evotech tail tidy (modded), Evotech Radiator Guard, Rizoma sport grips, Throttlemeister, Vtrec vario brake & cluth levers,
Givi E55 topcase, V35 side panniers & T480 tankbag, Kawasaki Engine guards, Carbon wrap, Scottoiler E-system,
Rizoma Graphico turn signals, ...
Squidus, you have to install a seperate piece between your frame & your tail.
It will give problems with most tail tidies, if not all ... unless you modify it like I did.
Detailed pictures & modding details on this thread :
Tail tidy + Givi top rack (F4100Z) - (not out of the box !)
I've went a step further to make it compatible with the side panniers as well, cut off the turn signal holders,and created some new alumium pieces to mount Rizoma turn signals further to the back, so they don't interfere with the Givi arms. Also created a new license plate light holder for a Koso LED light, much brighter & much better looking then that ugly OEM license plate light.
This new modification allowed me to not have all those extra spacers & just have one 1cm spacer between the tail tidy & the givi mount.
No pics yet ... but I'll post some when my SX is cleaned.
2011 Ebony Z1000SX - Akrapovic slip-ons, Puig screen, bi-xenon + LED angel eyes, Sargent seat,
Evotech tail tidy (modded), Evotech Radiator Guard, Rizoma sport grips, Throttlemeister, Vtrec vario brake & cluth levers,
Givi E55 topcase, V35 side panniers & T480 tankbag, Kawasaki Engine guards, Carbon wrap, Scottoiler E-system,
Rizoma Graphico turn signals, ...
2011 Ebony Z1000SX - Akrapovic slip-ons, Puig screen, bi-xenon + LED angel eyes, Sargent seat,
Evotech tail tidy (modded), Evotech Radiator Guard, Rizoma sport grips, Throttlemeister, Vtrec vario brake & cluth levers,
Givi E55 topcase, V35 side panniers & T480 tankbag, Kawasaki Engine guards, Carbon wrap, Scottoiler E-system,
Rizoma Graphico turn signals, ...
2011 Ninja 1000 :: Fastest Color :: Akrapovic 4-2-1 :: Pulled Sub Throttle Plates :: PAIR Blocked :: Modded Airbox :: PCV :: Pit Bull Swingarm Spools :: Fuzeblocks Power Distribution :: Gerbing Hookup :: Battery Tender Hookup :: Tank Slapper :: Zero Gravity Double Bubble :: Bags Connection Powered Tank Bag :: Ventura Tail Bag :: Sargent/Squidlius Maximus Seat