Hi Everybody: Got a 2012 N1K that is stock a week ago. Last night I added Motowerk's footpeg lowering blocks that lower the footpegs 1.3 inches. I was surprised to notice that, although the position is much more comfortable, it steers MUCH slower. Have any of you had this experience with this product? I used them on my Ninja 650 and Versys with no ill effects. The only thing that makes sense is that less weight is one the bars since the weight distribution has changed. On my other bikes I added lowering links which included raising the fork tubes. I have read that some current N1K owners are raising the fork tubes 5mm to quicken the steering. I think I will give that a try O/W they are coming off! Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Steve
Denver

Foot peg position shouldn't make any difference to steering geometry. And unless it significantly changes your body position (and the bike's center of grav.) I can't see how it would change the turn-in "feel". Maybe I don't understand your definition of slow steering, but are you sure you're countersteering properly?

I think the best demonstration of (lack of) impact of body position on steering is Keith Code's No B.S. bike

Thanks for your comment. I believe the bike is now easier to countersteer which I have been doing for years. there is less weight on my hands. What say you?
Steve

I love trying to explain countersteer to some of my squidly rider friends. It's like trying to explain how a black hole works. "What do you mean, you push the right handle bar up to turn right. That doesn't make any sense!" Is the reply I get a lot, so frustrating.

my mistake, i meant to say my bike is harder to countersteer.

Didn't make sense to me.. I don't see how your foot position would affect you pushing forward on either handlebar grip to initiate a turn..

______
Tapatalk 2, yo!

All of you guys are right. Took the lowering blocks off, went for a ride and guess what, NO DIFFERENCE! Must be operator malfunction. Sorry to waste everybody's time!
Steve

OMG i could see aprob with the brake lever but they hsve an item to fix this. I use it with factory pegs. Works great.

Hey Barry: What do you mean?

Not to be a flaming pedant, but one cannot ride a motorcycle without countersteering. Sure, the feel may have changed a bit with your new body position, but the mechanics of making a single-track vehicle turn haven't changed.

Edit: I see that this was covered nicely above. Note to self: stop skimming threads.

Originally Posted by Fromuthman

I love trying to explain countersteer to some of my squidly rider friends. It's like trying to explain how a black hole works. "What do you mean, you push the right handle bar up to turn right. That doesn't make any sense!" Is the reply I get a lot, so frustrating.

I had a long running argument with a physics professor in college about how motorcycles actually steered. He didn't ride and had no knowledge or understanding of countersteering. But he was convinced he understood the issues.

He was wrong and finally accepted that. The fastest way to trip up a physicist is to start talking vehicle dynamics.

steve, how tall are you and how much more leg room to you have with the lowering blocks. Have you had any issues with grinding the pegs now that they are lower?

Motowerk has a collet for the rear brake that allows you to lower more than the factory stamped steel piece. Its billet aluminum looks great and works fantastic. Its also made in the usa huge plus. Lets you get that brake pedel down more to where you can use it comfortably. Cheap,Looks Great, Get one you wont be sorry.

Hi Steve,
I just posted a response to your question on another thread. Sorry for any contradictions in earlier posts.

If your weight has shifted further back, you will have effectively raised the front end of your bike (and therefore the amount of trail).

To a smaller extent, you may have also lost;
1. a bit of leverage on the bars than before
2. a little less feel for the front wheel......

Dropping the front end should resolve your issue. By loading up the front (and unloading the rear), the more the forks will be compressed, and therefore the lower your front ride height (decreasing your trail).

Your post tells me your a sensitive to small changes, therefore I recommend changes as small as ~2mm and testing. This will also help you understand the subtleties of each change, in terms of feel.

Good luck.

Have you considered increasing the height and the width of the seat to increase leg room?

Depending on how your ride, you may want to consider raising the bike front and rear (while keeping the same forward pitch) to increase your cornering clearance.