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Question for those with 16 tooth sprocket....

This is a discussion on Question for those with 16 tooth sprocket.... within the 3rd Gen Z1000/Z1000SX/Ninja 1000 forums, part of the Kawasaki Z1000, Ninja 1000, Z750 & Z-750S category; Rowdyred94 gave me the tip with the bolt that finally broke my countershaft nut free. Thanks. I did find that the head of the bold ...

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Thread: Question for those with 16 tooth sprocket....

  1. #46
    Newbie wwpreachman's Avatar
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    Rowdyred94 gave me the tip with the bolt that finally broke my countershaft nut free. Thanks. I did find that the head of the bold did less damage to the rubber protector sheath with the head of the bolt against it and the other end against the tooth of the sprocket. Once that nut came free the process was pretty straight forward. Took it for a very short ride (we are having a pretty good wind storm right now) and I like it! It is the feel I've been looking for since I got the Ninja last fall.

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  3. #47
    Site Elder rowdyred94's Avatar
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    Welcome to RF. I was thinking just this morning how much I appreciate my speedo being accurate. It's a great mod for commuters and tourers.
    Oh-12 N1K ABS in Spark Black/Micron Gray... 25,000 happy miles and counting | Blog at Planet Buhs | Fuelly
    T-Rex Racing sliders ~ 16-tooth front sprocket ~ Puig screen ~ The2Wheels levers ~ Angel GTs ~ Symtec grip heaters ~ Givi toprack and V46 case ~ Garmin Zuma 550 + Cardo Scala Rider Q2
    '02 Bandit 12S (sold after 10 years and 47,000 miles)
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  4. #48
    Ydo
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwpreachman View Post
    Rowdyred94 gave me the tip with the bolt that finally broke my countershaft nut free. Thanks. I did find that the head of the bold did less damage to the rubber protector sheath with the head of the bolt against it and the other end against the tooth of the sprocket. Once that nut came free the process was pretty straight forward. Took it for a very short ride (we are having a pretty good wind storm right now) and I like it! It is the feel I've been looking for since I got the Ninja last fall.
    Not to be a smart **s but I believe the preferred way to loosen that nut is to put the transmission in neutral and have someone step on the rear brake. Now you can crank real hard and not stress the transmission.

    Am I missing a point here since we can't generate more torque by hand than the machine is designed to with the power train popping wheelies.

  5. #49
    Site Elder DJB, Lodi's Avatar
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    Exactly accurate! The only day I could ride last week I came around a country corner in a 55 mph zone. I looked up and saw a radar trap hidden off road. I quickly glanced at my speedo and saw 91mph. Yep, I got a big one and the officer confirmed he saw 91mph as well. How nice is that to confirm my speedo and GPS are accurate?
    Quote Originally Posted by rowdyred94 View Post
    Welcome to RF. I was thinking just this morning how much I appreciate my speedo being accurate. It's a great mod for commuters and tourers.
    2011 Nija 1000, Full Ivan's kit, set up for touring, heated grips, triple luggage, backrest, cruise control, GPS, Laser Jammer, Radar Detector, forward foot rest.
    2008 Raider S, spent more on mods vs. original cost new
    2010 DRZ SM, 60 hp racing track bike
    2003 KTM 625 SXC, racing off road enduro bike.

  6. #50
    Site Elder motoCYCHO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJB, Lodi View Post
    Exactly accurate! The only day I could ride last week I came around a country corner in a 55 mph zone. I looked up and saw a radar trap hidden off road. I quickly glanced at my speedo and saw 91mph. Yep, I got a big one and the officer confirmed he saw 91mph as well. How nice is that to confirm my speedo and GPS are accurate?
    Ouch! Speed limits are ridiculously low and so arbitrary... I mean in most highway and open road situations not residential or surface streets in city of course. 36 over is considered "reckless" in many places... but we all know 91 MPH on a modern sport bike, in a safe manner, and on an appropriate road, is no more unsafe then 55. Sorry about yer pinch.
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  7. #51
    Supreme Being jjsC6's Avatar
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    I have confirmed that it is dead accurate at 149. Yes, I've had the bike faster, but that is the fastest speed I have confirmed with a GPS on board.
    2011 Ninja 1000 - 2012 Ducati Panigale ABS - 2013 BMW 1600GT

  8. #52
    Site Elder rowdyred94's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ydo View Post
    Not to be a smart **s but I believe the preferred way to loosen that nut is to put the transmission in neutral and have someone step on the rear brake. Now you can crank real hard and not stress the transmission.

    Am I missing a point here since we can't generate more torque by hand than the machine is designed to with the power train popping wheelies.
    Try cranking on that nut with the bike in neutral and you'll find out how weak the rear brake is in that situation. It doesn't spare the transmission from much of the stress at all. I have no intention of putting my transmission through that when I can easily use the frame and not risk expensive damage.
    Oh-12 N1K ABS in Spark Black/Micron Gray... 25,000 happy miles and counting | Blog at Planet Buhs | Fuelly
    T-Rex Racing sliders ~ 16-tooth front sprocket ~ Puig screen ~ The2Wheels levers ~ Angel GTs ~ Symtec grip heaters ~ Givi toprack and V46 case ~ Garmin Zuma 550 + Cardo Scala Rider Q2
    '02 Bandit 12S (sold after 10 years and 47,000 miles)
    'Busa shock ~ Racetech forks ~ Holeshot stage 1 & pipe ~ Hella headlights ~ CBRXX clipons
    '02 Honda XR50R

  9. #53
    Up-And Comer Patchlead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cudapet View Post
    Are you guys installing the OEM kawasaki front 16T sprocket? (2012 Ninja 1000 ABS)
    ok.. I was getting very excited about this post line bucause i want to drop the RPM at 110Km/h, until i got to this one... I do have a 2012 Ninja 1000 ABS.... so... I am guess I have a 16t already?? lol

    So... Do i need to look for a 17t one??

  10. #54
    Site Elder rowdyred94's Avatar
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    Neither N1K variant ships with a 16-tooth sprocket. It is an OEM Kawasaki part, but not stock for the Ninja.
    Patchlead likes this.
    Oh-12 N1K ABS in Spark Black/Micron Gray... 25,000 happy miles and counting | Blog at Planet Buhs | Fuelly
    T-Rex Racing sliders ~ 16-tooth front sprocket ~ Puig screen ~ The2Wheels levers ~ Angel GTs ~ Symtec grip heaters ~ Givi toprack and V46 case ~ Garmin Zuma 550 + Cardo Scala Rider Q2
    '02 Bandit 12S (sold after 10 years and 47,000 miles)
    'Busa shock ~ Racetech forks ~ Holeshot stage 1 & pipe ~ Hella headlights ~ CBRXX clipons
    '02 Honda XR50R

  11. #55
    Rising Star BenChamin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowdyred94 View Post
    I doubt that it's accurate to some point and then not. It's just that the difference isn't as noticeable at lower speeds. In my experience, it's always linear.
    Yes, my thoughts too, unless there is something relativistic going on under the hood. :-)

  12. #56
    Up-And Comer cudapet's Avatar
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    Did this 16 tooth front sprocket mod with an OEM Kawasaki sprocket today on my 2012 N1k ABS. My old husky impact spun the nut right off, no problem there. What im wondering is before with the stock 15 tooth sprocket my rpm's at 60 mph were right at 4000, now after going up 1 tooth on the front my rpm's at 60 mph are still right at 4000. Am I missing something here? I thought I would be around 3500- 3600 rpm's at 60 mph.

  13. #57
    Rising Star Steve454's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=cudapet;814049]Did this 16 tooth front sprocket mod with an OEM Kawasaki sprocket today on my 2012 N1k ABS. What im wondering is before with the stock 15 tooth sprocket my rpm's at 60 mph were right at 4000, now after going up 1 tooth on the front my rpm's at 60 mph are still right at 4000. Am I missing something here? I thought I would be around 3500- 3600 rpm's at 60 mph.[/QUOTE

    I noticed the same thing when I went to the 16 tooth sprocket. The difference is you are now going a true 60 mph as per my gps, not 56 mph with the 15 tooth.
    tjap74 likes this.

  14. #58
    Site Elder JSharp's Avatar
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    Look at my post on page 1 of the thread. The speedo gets its data from the speed sensor located behind the countershaft sprocket cover. That funky looking nut that secures the C/S sprocket is the reluctor for the speed sensor. It's just a calculation from countershaft RPM to determine vehicle speed. When you change rear ratios the engine RPM v. countershaft RPM remains the same but your true speed will change.
    Gordz likes this.
    '11 Ninja 1000
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  15. #59
    Up-And Comer cudapet's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for clearing this up for me. I pulled the old 15t sprocket out of my box thinking during all the excitement I might have put the wrong one on. Geez, As a master auto tech I should have known better.(speed sensor) I was just thinking all my old bikes the speed was measured by a cable on the front hub and going up one tooth on the front always dropped the rpm's by 400 or more.

    I will say this though, This is the sprocket that should have been installed at the factory. The bike is so much smoother and I noticed im not sliding into the tank near as bad on de-cell.

  16. #60
    Up-And Comer Mike810's Avatar
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    I just researched on GearingCommander.com to get speed calculations. At 5000 RPM in 6th gear with stock 15/41 gearing speed is 72.1. At 5000 RPM in 6th gear with 16/41 gearing speed is 76.9. This is why the speedometer is now more accurate with the 16T front sprocket. The RPM's might read the same, but your actual speed is higher. What I did find odd is my fuel mileage didn't change at all when trying to ride both set-ups in a similar manner.

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