Mike was a busy boy! Just out of curiousity whats your expected time from removal to install for the pistons, valve polishing and clutch (assuming the clutch is being done because I noticed the plates on the floor)?
Hmm hope in a week or two, still waiting on parts, some on back order. Unforseen clutch issues, all the steels are bad and have been very hot at one time. So I have to get those, but that's not going to hold me up. It will be all apart this weekend, all cleaned up, rods to the machinist to get small end bushed.
Its the 1st. time I've seen the inside of a bike's engine. Speed sure has his act together when it comes to these motors.
He took the time to answer all the questions I asked with great detail. From clutches to oil flow to cam chains & so on.
I really appreciate the info you shared with me today pal & the work your doing to my scoot. I cant wait to get the
new & improved version on the road...
Not even close, I will post some pics of the clutch disks later. All of Mikes steels are bad all but one. They have got very hot, although the frictions are with in spec, they are glazed as well, so new plates or I may have a good used set of frictions.
Also here is the noise maker. This is the counter balancer, the rubbers get soft, and the the ears of the outer peice hits the inner peice and knock, knock knock.
obviously you know you way around an engine. My Mean Streak clutch is out to the end and I may have to replace it. Is it that big a job to do and do you know if there are any special tools that I might need.
The Mean Streak Clutch is hydraulic and there is no adjustment. It was borne (manufactured) "out to the end" Unless it is slipping, you don't have to worry about it.
If it's slipping, then you might need to "replace" you clutch.
A little performance info. The pistons I used for Lisa's and my build were the Keith black hyper flat tops no valve cuts. All my future builds will be with CP forged flat tops with a 6cc valve cut. The KB are 421 grams. The CP are 403 grams. These are very nice pistons. If I want a little more CR I will use a weisco with 5cc valve cuts.
Maybe, but will be chewing my rear if I don't get him back up and riding soon. And again not bashing the boiler man, just educational info for all. This is the one of the things that can happen by installing the screen in wrong. Larger peices of crap can enter the pump and cause havoc.
Going to Speeds again tomorrow. I'll be taking the new exhaust to him. I got a set of Cobra True Dual slashdowns.
I'm hoping the weather will warm up soon & we'll have the bike running good so I can get some MUCH needed wind therapy...
Head work has begun. Intakes are smoothed, contoured, valve guides cut, all sharp edges smoothed in combustion chamber. Intake ports will be bead blasted after work is done, exhaust polished.
Mighty fine work guys. I like the tank Colin, mike is lucky have your knowledge on that build. He may need viagra just to keep up with her when done. She's gonna run strong and be aggressive when she's done, like raging hormones.
Yea I am a bit behind, delay on parts, delay on valve seat tooling, and I did not have the correct grit of stones for final cylinder prep. So looks like it's going to be next week before it's done. I am using a different ring setup, needs a different finish than what I used in the past. The wait will be more than worth it though. The 1500 heads have a port volume of 94cc, the 1600 heads are 110 cc. Using Keith black piston pins, over the corrilo, cp pins are 117 grams, kb are 105 grams.
This thread is making me want to scour craigslist for a $200 bike I can tear entirely down just to see if I can put it back together again. Wish I had a heated workspace because it would definitely be a great way to spend the cooler months instead of watching the "57 channels and nothing on".
I have not gone past adjusting the valves on an engine.
Don't know about that!
I did not remove much material, just smooth and contour. Intake is not polished but is smoothed and contoured. Takes a lot of time to do these,
1600 though needs less work.
I think you will have no issues with yours.
Well some progress, but not as much as planned, but still looking at this weekend completion. Now what I am going to say and do goes against everything I know, everything I say, everything I have been taught, and everything I do. So bear with me. As always been the best way to finish intake ports on carbed engines, is to never never never polish. You need the unfinished surface to aide in the atomization of the fuel with incoming air. And this is also the case with FI, in a conventional port fuel injection engine, but we are not working with a normal port FI. These injectors fire the fuel before the intake opens, as does most port FI, but our case is that the fuel is shot directly onto the valve, not just into the port. So I am going against the mass's and polishing everything, if this turns out to be a bad deal, well I will pull it back out and redo the intake ports, but in my countless hours pondering this I feel this will turn out to be worth a few pony's. I think the air volume trumps all and will help in the swirl process. Still have to cut seats, the combustion chamber was all hand worked.
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